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on the inside view, you can see how we cut and mitered the stiles and panels to shorten them.
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the first one of that pair i used was on my garage at the house just after i bought them and i shortened that one to 7 feet too before i made the frame and hung it. in the photo below, i used the mason miter technique on the stile and rail intersections, but on the new metal shop, i decided to keep the cope and stick joints by shortening the stiles themselves and gluing them back together. in reality, either choice is fine.
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mason miter joinery at the red arrow
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the first pair i bought at a tag sale in the 80s for $20. for the pair. they were already only 7 high and 4 wide. i used one on the front of the shop above, and one on the side door on the shop porch, below.
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i think they came from the same manufacturer as the new pair, as all the joinery techniques and moldings appear to be the same ...
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the joinery on the doors originally was 4, 1/2" dowels, about 6 inches long at each horizontal
and vertical intersection. invariably, the joints loosen and the dowels can be cut with a hand saw or fein tool and the rails removed.
and vertical intersection. invariably, the joints loosen and the dowels can be cut with a hand saw or fein tool and the rails removed.
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i rejoined the stiles and the bottom rail with 8" timberlock screws as i couldnt spread the stiles enough to insert loose tenons or dowels ... worked fine, and im sure its at least as strong or stronger than the original dowel joinery.
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i added a couple of dominos for alignment ...
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and made a jig for gluing them up straight
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mitering and regluing the panels and stiles was a cinch
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