![](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bGmqqdsXa-8/UoADuiaDHCI/AAAAAAAAVXw/GeycSH4ucm4/s320/7+foot+model+t+door+1.jpg)
![](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fzJ01CWRRAo/UoADuoLTYJI/AAAAAAAAVX0/E0FCIxa_Wbs/s320/carridge+house+door.jpg)
on the inside view, you can see how we cut and mitered the stiles and panels to shorten them.
![](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qjMq96vVP8M/UoADuoeWfmI/AAAAAAAAVX4/CcgAit68S_k/s320/carridge+house+doors+2.jpg)
the first one of that pair i used was on my garage at the house just after i bought them and i shortened that one to 7 feet too before i made the frame and hung it. in the photo below, i used the mason miter technique on the stile and rail intersections, but on the new metal shop, i decided to keep the cope and stick joints by shortening the stiles themselves and gluing them back together. in reality, either choice is fine.
![](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pS8reHoJlXU/UoADxcV4eKI/AAAAAAAAVYM/tLdcJ0QslFg/s320/mason+miter.jpg)
mason miter joinery at the red arrow
![](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F1sbkw6PrDI/UoADx3A6ZcI/AAAAAAAAVYU/KVFCIfu-XgU/s320/model+t+doors.jpg)
the first pair i bought at a tag sale in the 80s for $20. for the pair. they were already only 7 high and 4 wide. i used one on the front of the shop above, and one on the side door on the shop porch, below.
![](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6SIdNc4wT1U/UoADxX0S2oI/AAAAAAAAVYI/PmxF1ux3fKQ/s320/model+t+doors+3.jpg)
i think they came from the same manufacturer as the new pair, as all the joinery techniques and moldings appear to be the same ...
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz_DYwWU79x0dpMdNzlNFgl3LJguzoAVOkTELVYLs_RAQX7If-sq2Ld9k-Q30QJ3Tge0SsiaBGK-Yh9EQfGPdnMGG2EPtbsqPVBQ7I-YXZfO2hrAguw8KumNliZPxTiwUIwlKVOr4mzNbd/s320/door+shortening+1.jpg)
the joinery on the doors originally was 4, 1/2" dowels, about 6 inches long at each horizontal
and vertical intersection. invariably, the joints loosen and the dowels can be cut with a hand saw or fein tool and the rails removed.
and vertical intersection. invariably, the joints loosen and the dowels can be cut with a hand saw or fein tool and the rails removed.
![](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ev-i0bAzYEk/Un__qZ1ovxI/AAAAAAAAVW0/0OZEijCe3H0/s320/door+shortening+2.jpg)
i rejoined the stiles and the bottom rail with 8" timberlock screws as i couldnt spread the stiles enough to insert loose tenons or dowels ... worked fine, and im sure its at least as strong or stronger than the original dowel joinery.
![](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DwZOmc2ogZk/Un__1l7e-NI/AAAAAAAAVXc/SZ6bE0xB7OY/s320/door+shortening+6.jpg)
i added a couple of dominos for alignment ...
![](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c6lg2RYlknM/Un__0Td3erI/AAAAAAAAVXI/m1Hy1eZW8GI/s320/door+shortening+4.jpg)
and made a jig for gluing them up straight
![](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XhjB2_VI9Zc/UoAMIXuo_PI/AAAAAAAAVYo/d02zifuJDaw/s320/door+shortening+3.jpg)
mitering and regluing the panels and stiles was a cinch
![](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZWf7aIw7tCA/Un__0uUUghI/AAAAAAAAVXM/Dib9KDQ47YA/s320/door+shortening+5.jpg)
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