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Kamis, 10 November 2016

Walnut Chess Board w Drawers

Now that I have some more time to catch up on projects since I retired 7/1, I finished this chess board I promised my daughter to give her husband as a gift for his birthday. 
Overall size is 16" x 16" x 3 1/2".
The board is constructed of wenge and maple and is set in the frame with clearance for wood movement. There are 2 support rails for the board and I drilled slots in those and mounted the top with screws like a table top. This should allow for wood movement without damage.
The pieces are held in a drawer on both ends of the board. Walnut dividers keep the pieces organized, green felt drawer liners in each.
I applied 2 coats of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal gloss with a coat of wax. 
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Senin, 17 Oktober 2016

The Windsor Institute Road Trip

I left Jackson, TN Thursday 7/8 and headed off to Hampton, NH and the Windsor Institute to take the 7/12 Sack Back chair class offered my Mike Dunbar and his team of instructors, Fred and Don. It is an intense, physical class, as there is minimum use of power tools (a drill, circular saw, and instructor operated bandsaw) in the preparation and assembly of this chair. I believe you can find a direct correlation in Tylenol sales in the NE and the dates of the chair classes. I was in with a group of great people from as close as Maine, from Canada, PA, NY, OH, OK, and as far achoice as Seoul, South Korea. We had a young man who just turned 11 years old in our class and he did an outstanding job. His father and instructors guided him along, but he didnt need any more help than the rest of us. I have a ton of photos I took to help me for the next time, but I will summarize the assembly here to give you and idea of what "start to finish" looks like. I can say this, if you every wanted to build one of these classic chairs, learn about the chair itself and the "whys" of the design elements, you will not find anything better than attending the Institute or anyone more knowledgeable than Mike Dunbar. Mike and his crew demystify as they teach so you not only understand what you are doing, but why you are doing it.
The Windsor Institute
Mike will send you a list of tools he recommends you need once your registration is completed. Show up on Monday with your tools, and you will get your bench location and thats is were you work for the remainder of the week.
Getting organized and ready to get going.
Seat blank, spindles, and stretchers
Believe it or not, what you see here will be a completed Sack Back chair by the end of the week. Yeah, I know, I didnt believe it either :)
                                                      
Smoothing the seat blank. This seat is Eastern white pine. The blanks are glued up and ready to go, but you need to pay attention to the grain as it is very possible it will run in opposite directions. Got to love those shavings!!
Seat blank cut and ready to shape the inside. The cut in the middle is made by a circular saw set for a target depth of the seat in the middle.
"swing for a single-not a bunt" was the saying you heard over and over through out the room as we took the gutter adz to start shaping the seat. I guess a "home run" would eliminate one toe!! Chop, chop, chop.
Compass plane starts the smoothing process, after the scorp, this work will last a good part of the morning.
Ready for layout lines and drilling at this point
Getting busy on the 7 back spindles, rough shaping "green" red oak so it can dry for the final shaping on Thursday.
This steam unit is one of two that prepares the arm and bow for bending. Each student pairs up with a partner to bend these parts, 
Arm and Bow in the furnace room where the conditions are set to dry these parts quickly enough that we can use them on Thursday and Friday.
Seat drilled and ready for leg and stretcher assembly
Legs and stretchers installed - nice stool you have there!
Arm stumps and short spindles dry fit, now this is starting to look like a chair.
"Hey...you got 10 minutes to get this done, we need you outside"
Remember what we started this process with? All that remains is to fit the bow over the spindles. Holes are drilled, spindles are cut to length and wedged.
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Kamis, 12 Mei 2016

Adirondack Settee

Adirondack Settee built for one of the guys in the weekday golf group. Made of Poplar, stainless steel screws and waterproof glue used during assembly, and finished in a good quality exterior latex.  I enjoyed making this and he and his wife are enjoying it now that it has found a home on their deck.
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Senin, 04 April 2016

A Good Days Work

Prior to leaving for a trip back home to visit family, I glued up 2 chairs and  finished getting the remaining parts cut, edged, tenoned, and mortises cut, to assemble the remaining 4 of 6 chairs for my sons eat in kitchen table. These chairs are being built using poplar and I am going to try General Finishes Milk Paint (Black) with coats of their High Performance top coat. I had the opportunity to meet a factory rep at a recent woodworking shop open house and he recommended milk paint over the GF Black stain I had been using for my sons furniture. These chairs will replace the ones that came with the set produced in some overseas country of wood that I cant figure out what it is. I have repaired two chairs for them on recent trips, I believe these will last a while. Intended to be a Christmas present, I think I will have them done in time. I will of course post the finished product.
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Sabtu, 19 Maret 2016

Adirondack Chairs

A pair a chairs made following plans I saw in FWW recently by Tom Begnal. I made a few modifications, most significant was adding an additional seat slat curved to match the angle of the back to fill in the. Poplar with two coats of primer, and two coats of exterior latex. Very comfortable design and light weight because of the wood I used. Lots of space on the arms to hold the beverage of your choice!
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Jumat, 18 Maret 2016

Adirondack Chair Part One

A good friend and previous customer ordered her second Adirondack chair and I thought I would take some step-by-step photos as I started the project. Maybe this will be helpful for those who haven’t tried to build one of these great chairs, or is curious about how they go together. My design is a modified version of Tom Begnal’s chair from Fine Woodworking. I have made some subtle changes with each one I build, mostly with the seat slates and the arm shape/width.
The happy graduating class of the 7/12/10 Sack Back class.
Everyone got there chairs completed and ready to head for home or where ever else they had scheduled for their trip. This was without a doubt one of the most memorable weeks I have ever spent in woodworking and I am looking forward to going back in the Spring to take the Writing Arm chair class.
I loaded up the chair and headed off to Cooperstown, NY to visit the Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum. When I get back to my shop in TN, I will finish cleaning the chair up and get ready to apply the Milk Paint finish. On the last leg of the "Windsor Chair Road trip" spending a week in Cincinnati, so it will be a week or so before I get to doing that.  I will post some pictures of the finished chair
 Chair parts cut and ready to assemble
First I cut the parts required for the chair. Having built a number of these, I have a set of templates made of hardboard to speed up the layout of most of the curved parts.
Chair base complete
Take the two sides and attach the front seat slat, drill and counter sink the holes. I use waterproof glue and stainless steel screws and bolts in my chairs.  Once the front seat slat is installed, and the lower cradle and attach the same choice you did the front slat.

Glue the leg assemblies now, I find this easier than bolting the chair to the body and then trying to add the arm support parts. Again, SS screws and waterproof glue. I drilled the holes for the arm attachment later in the process.
Clamp the front leg assemblies to the base. Mark and drill the bolt holes to attach the front legs. The angle of the chair is determined by the cut on the bottom of the sides so when you lift the front, it will be clear where to drill the holes to attach the legs. Quick clamps help out here.
Front legs bolted to the chair frame with 3/8” SS bolts, washers and nuts. Next step is to prepare the back risers.

Determine the angle to cut the back risers. This is where the upper cradle attaches and determines the slant of the chair back. In this case the angle is 25*. Anything less and the back may be more upright, more and the back will lay back. A personal preference, but this angle seems to be most comfortable.
Attach back risers in the same manners as the front legs. Glue prior to bolting the risers, unlike I did the first time I bolted these to the sides :) 
Add a temporary spacer at the top of the risers to get the proper spacing for the upper cradle. Drill and countersink the holes for the cradle and attach with glue and screws to the top of the risers.
Completed base assembly
The base is now complete. All of the back slats and seat slates have been cut, sanded, and ready for the finish. This chair will receive 2 coats of Porter Paints exterior latex enamel. In the past I have either brushed or sprayed the paint after the chair is complete. I found it very difficult to get into all the tight spots after so this time I am going to paint everything before attaching the slats and arms. Look for the results in the second part of this post. You can see the templates I mentioned earlier on the right edge of the photo.
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